A-Line

A term coined by Christian Dior to define a dress, coat or top that is close at the shoulders and gently flared at the hemline, resembling the letter A in design.

A-Line Dress

Form-fitting bodice that flares out from the waistline to a full skirt.

A-line Shape

A body style having a close-fitting top and a flared bottom.

A-Line Skirt

A skirt that is fitted at the waist and flares out in an A-line or tulip shape at the hem.

Accordion pleats

Narrow folded pleats shaped like the bellows of an accordion.

Adjustable

A cuff that can be adjusted in size.

Ainsley

A plain necktie collar which has spread points. The spread shortens the points. This collar also has slots for inserting collar stays. An Ainsley collar is a standard necktie collar that has a 45 inch to 60 inch angle at the tie space (place closest to skin at the neck - above the neck button). This is the most common type of collar used for shirts that are worn with neck ties.

Airsoft Finish

As the name implies, a finish giving a fabric a softer hand.

Alligator

Exotic grains, long-wearing leather. Most are imported and are very expensive.

Alpaca

Fiber from an animal resembling a llama, it can be used in pile fabrics for insulated coats.

Alpaca

Fibre: True alpaca is a hair fibre from the Alpaca animal, a member of the Ilama family of the South American Andes Mountains. Also imitated in wool, wool and alpaca, rayon, mohair and rayon or cotton and a cotton warp and alpaca filling also synthetics - e.g. orlon. Weave: Various weaves, knits, and weights. Characteristics: Fine, silk-like, soft, light weight and warm. Has much luster and resembles mohair. If guard hairs are used it is inclined to be boardy. It is strong and durable. True alpaca is expensive so often combined with other fibres or imitated by other fibres - e.g. orlon. Uses: Men's and Women's suits, coats and sportswear, linings and sweaters. Some fine alpaca used for women's dresses. Also in pile or napped fabric for coating.

American Sleeve

A no sleeve design with a large diagonal cut from the base of the neck to the bottom of the armhole.

Ande

One yard and nine inches of warp thread

Angled pocket

See slanted pocket.

Angora

Fibre: Hair from the angora rabbit. Often blended and mixed with wool to lower the price of the finished article or to obtain fancy or novelty effects. Weave: Various weave and knitted. Characteristics: Very fine, light weight, extremely warm and fluffy. Has a tendency to shed and mat with time. Must be designated as angora rabbit's hair. Uses: Used mostly in knitwear - gloves, scarves, sweaters, etc. for children and women. Also blended with wool in dress goods and suits to give a softer feel.

Aniline Calfskin

Calfskin leather that has been dyed with aniline, an oily liquid. This process gives the leather a soft feel.

Antique Brass

Brass that has been darkened by the use of chemicals.

Antique Wash

A process that gives the fabric a worn, slightly washed out look.

Appliqu

Stitching in which a design is created by sewing pieces of fabric (or other materials) together onto a fabric background.

Applique

(Ape - lei - Kay) - A design applied to another surface, frequently with a decorative stitch.

Arca

Green peach tree branch with a string fastened from end to end to form a bow, used to remove small particles of dirt and debris from cotton and to unravel matted cotton to a soft fiber; an Osage orange branch bow used as an alternative to a green peach tree branch for the same purpose; bow, arch

Argyle

Design often used for knitwear and hosiery: two or three colors in a diamond shaped design.

Armhole

An opening in a garment through which the arm is inserted.

Armored

Fibre: Cotton, silk, wool, rayon, synthetics, and blends. Weave: Plain, twill, or rib, background often has a small design either acquard or dobby made with warp floats on surface giving a raised effect. Characteristics: Design is often in two colours and raised. The name was derived from original fabric, which was woven with a small interlaced design of chain armor and used for military equipment during the Crusades. Uses: a rich looking dress fabric, draperies, or upholstery

Art Linen

Fibre :Linen. Weave: Plain. Characteristics: It is woven with even threads that are especially good for embroidery. It is very easy to "draw" the yarns for drawn thread work. Comes bleached, or coloured. Has a soft finish. Uses: All kinds of needlework, lunch cloths, serviettes, etc.

Ascot

High, round neckline with long scarf attached at center back, brought around, and one end looped over the other, ends hanging loose. Also called a stock neckline or tie neck.

Astrakhan

Fibre: Wool. Sometimes made with a mohair warp to add lustre and curl to the surface. Poor grades often have cotton warp or back. Fur: Luxuriant fur, curly and wavy. Most popular shade is brown. It is a caraculs lambskin forms the Astrakhan section of Russia. Weave: Good grades woven with a pile weave and cut. Cheap grades are knitted. Characteristics: Resembles astrakhan fur. Deep pile with curled loops. Durable and warm. Uses: Coats, cloaks, trimmings and accessories.

Athleisure

Styles constructed of Lycra/spandex or other fabrics that promote movement and breathability.

Attaché

A flap front briefcase where the flap closes halfway down the front, with a top handle.

Aune

One yard and nine inches of warp thread

Baby Doll

A short nightgown whose hem terminates just below the hip. A baby doll is longer than a crop top, but shorter than a chemise.

Back Drape

A length of material attached either at the shoulder or the waist that flows over the back to floor length. In some cases, it’s removable.

Back Yoke

A fitted or shaped piece at the top of a skirt or at the shoulder of various garments.

Back yoke

A function of design and fit. The back yoke is also known as a sire. The deeper the "v" of the back yoke on a pant, the more of a curve in the seat.

Badger Bristles

Short, stiff coarse hairs from the badger, used in our shaving brush.

Ballerina Neckline

A low neckline that is often paired with strapless or spaghetti-strapped dresses.

Ballerina/Ballet Flat

A flat shoe with a thin, skid-proof sole, often with a drawstring or elastic top line.

Balloon sleeve

A larger version of the puff sleeve. Also called a bouffant sleeve.

Balmoral

A closed-throat shoe with a laced front.

Band Collar

A collar having just the neckband, but no collar attached to it.

Bandana

Traditionally, red or blue large cotton square folded into a triangle and tied around the neck. Has distinctive white or black print.

Bandeau/Tube Top

A band-shaped bodice.

Bar Stripe

A straight stripe or band that is much longer that it is wide.

Bar tacks

Closely spaced stitches that connect to form a band or a bar that reinforces stress points on jeans such as corners of front and back pockets, seams and buttonholes.

Barathea

Fibre: Worsted, silk, rayon or silk or rayon warp combined with cotton or wool. Weave: An indistinct twill, plain or novelty. Usually a twilled hopsack weave. Characteristics: Fine textured, slightly pebbled surface. Appears to be cut off-grain. Very hard wearing. English in origin and originally made as a mourning cloth. It is still often dyed black. Uses: Women's suits and coats, men's evening wear, dress goods in light fibres. Also used in silk for cravat cloth and after five wear.

Barrel Cuffs

Single lined cuffs with a regular button and buttonhole closing.

Baseball Neckline

A collar similar to that of the uniform worn by a baseball player.

Basketweave

Variation of a plain weave fabric in which two or more yarns are worked in the warp and weft, used mostly in shirting.

Basque Waist/V-Waist

A dropped waist that starts at, or just below, the natural waistline, and dips in the center creating a "V" shape.

Bateau neckline

Also called a boat neckline; cut in shallow curve from shoulder to shoulder.

Bateau/Boat Neck

A high, wide, straight neckline that runs straight across the front and back, meeting at the shoulders; it has the same depth in the front and back.

Batik Print

Indonesian way of dyeing fabric in which waxed areas resist the dye and unwaxed areas are penetrated by it.

Batiste

Fibre: Cotton, also rayon and wool. Weave: Plain Characteristics: Named after Jean Baptiste, a French linen weaver. Light weight, soft, semi-sheer fabric which resembles nainsook, but finer. It belongs to the lawn family; almost transparent. It is made of tightly twisted, combed yarns and mercerized finish. Sometimes it is printed or embroidered. In a heavier weight, it is used for foundation garments and linings in a plain, figured, striped, or flowered design. Considered similar to nainsook but finer and lighter in weight. Now usually made of 100% polyester distinguished by slubs in filling direction.

Battoire

An implement used in the washing of clothing, wedge-shaped with a handle extending from the larger side of the wedge, carved from a single piece of wood

Bayadere

Fibre: Silk. Weave: Crosswise rib (plain or twill weave). Characteristics: Has brightly coloured stripes in the filling direction. Often black warp. The colour effects are usually startling or bizarre. Mostly produced in India. Name derived from the Bajadere dancing girl of India, dedicated from birth to a dancing life. The Bayadere costume includes the striped garment, a flimsy scarf or shawl, jeweled trousers, spangles, sequins, anklets. Uses: Blouses, dresses, after 5 wear.

Beaver Cloth

Fibre: Wool. Also sotton and napped on both sides - double faced. Weave: Twill and very heavily napped, and fulled. Characteristics: Originally English. Made to simulate beaver fur. Thick, gives excellent wear and very warm - resembles kersey. Length of nap varies with the cloth and its uses. Has a luxurious look. Has the longest nap of all the napped fabrics and usually somewhat silky. Often light coloured fibres added to nap to increase shine. Uses: Mostly used for warm coats. Cotton beaver is used for caps, shoe linings, work cloths, Maritime clothes and sports clothes where work is required.

Bedford Cord

Fibre: Wool or worsted but worsted is more popular. Also made in cotton, silk and rayon. Weave: Lengthwise rib. Sometimes stuffing emphasizes the ribs. Characteristics: Both Bedford, England and New Bedford, Mass. claim the name. Very pronounced rib. Very firm construction. Takes much hard wear. Have various qualities and weights. Uses: Suiting, coatings, riding breeches, uniforms and upholstery.

Beechwood

A fabric resembling the color of the beech tree (which has a smooth, gray bark).

Belgium Linen

Linen fabric made in Belgium

Bell Cuff

See circular cuff.

Bell Sleeve

Smooth fitting at armhole; flares to hem edge like a bell.

Bellow pocket

Patch type pocket with inverted or box pleat to allow for expansion; used on jackets, shirts, and safari style garments; also called safari pocket.

Belt loop

A small piece of fabric used on jeans and trousers, placed around the waistband to hold a belt up.

Bemberg Lining

Bemberg is a brand name of rayon fabric, of the finest quality. It is used for our suit and sportcoat linings, and is the softest, finest lining available

Bengal Stripe

Colorfully striped fabric shipped to world markets from Bengal, India; used for sportshirts, pajamas, and more.

Bengaline

Fibre: Silk, wool, rayon, synthetics, cotton. Weave: Crosswise rib, warp faced. Characteristics: First made of silk in Bengal, India. Ribs are round and raised. Often has wool or cotton dilling in the ribs, which doesn't show. Difficult to make bound buttonholes in it. Has a tendency to slip at the seams if too tightly fitted. Grosgrain and Petersham is bengaline cut to ribbon widths. The cloth is usually 40" wide. Uses: Coats, suits, millinery, trims, bouffant dresses with a tailored look, mourning cloth, draperies. A French term for bengaline made from a silk or rayon warp and worsted filling which is given a hard twist.

Bertha collar

Deep, flat collar that falls from neckline to shoulder opening at front or back.

Besom Pocket

A pocket sewn inside a garment with access through a welted slit-type opening.

Besom Pockets

Pocket with a stitched fold on both the upper and lower sides.

Bias Cut

Cut diagonally across the grain of a fabric. Used to create garments that follow the body curves closely.

Bias ruffle

Edging made from circular pieces of fabric; smooth at seam edge, fuller at hem edge.

Bikini

A brief, close-fitting two-piece bathing suit.

Bikini Panty

Panties with full coverage in the front and back with high-cut sides.

Billfold

Another name for a type of a man's wallet.

Birdseye

Fabric characterized by a small geometric pattern with a center dot resembling a bird's eye.

Birdseye

Fibre: In cotton and Linen or blend of rayon staple and cotton. Weave: Usually dobby Characteristics: Very soft, lightweight, and absorbent. Woven with a loosely twisted filling to increase absorbency. Launders very well. No starch is applied because the absorption properties must be of the best. Material must be free from any foreign matter. It is also called "diaper cloth" and is used for that purpose as well as very good towelling. Also "novelty" birdseye effects used as summer dress fabrics.

Blackwatch

A plaid pattern in hunter/royal/black.

Blake Construction

Fancy name for the way upper leather is sewn to the sole of the shoe. It denotes a reinforced, well constructed shoe - similar to Goodyear construction.

Blanket Cloth

Fibre: Wool, worsted, cotton, blends, synthetics. Weave: Plain or twill. Characteristics: Soft, raised finish, "nap" obtained by passing the fabric over a series of rollers covered with fine wire or teasels. Heavily napped and fulled on both sides. Nap lose and may pill in laundering. Named in honor of Thomas Blanket (Blanquette), a Flemish weaver who lived in Bristol, England in the XIV century, and was the first to use this material for sleeping to keep warm. Uses: Bed covering, overcoats, robes.

Blazer Stripe

A fabric pattern with wide-spaced thin stripes.

Bluchers

Shoes having the tongue and vamp cut in one piece and the quarters lapped over the vamp and laced together for closing.

Bluff Edge

When the edges of a garment are not topstitched.

Board

A warp box

Bobine

A bobbin; a bobbin, spool, reel; a bobbin, spool

Bodice

The torso area of a woman’s dress.

Body Briefer

A girdle/bra that extends from shoulder straps to the thighs.

Bolivia (Elysian)

Fiber: Wool. Sometimes contains alpaca or mohair. Weave: Twill- usually 3 up and 3 down. A pile weave (cut) with a diagonal pattern. Characteristics: Pile face, which varies in depth. Soft and has a velvety feel. Usually piece dyed. Usually has lines or ridges in the warp or in a diagonal direction on one side. Comes in light, medium and heavy weights. Uses: Cloakings and coatings and some suits.

Bombazine

Fibre: Usually have silk or rayon warp and worsted filling. Imitations are made in cotton. Weave: Plain or twill. Characteristics: Very fine English fabric. Name comes from Latin "bombycinum" which means a silk in texture. It is one of the oldest materials known and was originally all-silk. Uses: Infants wear. When dyed black it is used in the mourning cloth trade

Boot-Cut

Refers to trousers or jeans that are cut below the belly button and flare slightly from the knees to the ankles to accommodate any type of footwear.

Boston Bag

An overnight bag.

Boucle

A fabric woven from curled or twisted yarn so as to produce small loops on the surface, giving it a kinky appearance.

Boucle

Fibre: Wool, also in rayon, silk, cotton, linen, blends, hair fibres. Weave: Any weave, knit. Characteristics: From the French for "buckled" or "ringed". A drawn out or ringed, looped yarn is used to give it a kinky appearance at intervals. Made in a variety of weights. Boucle yarns are usually in both the filling and the warp. Fabrics are usually springy to handle on account of the highly twisted yarns used to achieve the boucle effect. Often ravels easily. Uses: Coats, suits, dresses, sportswear.

Boucle

An uneven yarn made with threads of varying looseness for a luxurious, nubby texture.

Bouleau

A skein of yarn

Bouton

A projecting nub or "button," achieved through hand-manipulation of the weft thread usually placed on coverlets at the intersection of warp and weft cordons; button

Box Pleat

A two-sided fold in the garment resembling a panel, with the edges facing opposite directions.

Box Pleat

Two folds of fabric brought together to form a pleat.

Box-Pleated

Two folds of fabric brought together to form a pleat.

Boy-Leg

Shorts, undergarments, or swimwear that have a close fitting leg that reaches to the top of the thigh.

Bra Cami

A fitted top, usually a cotton/spandex knit, with spaghetti straps and a built-in shelf bra.

Braces

Suspenders.

Braided

Woven or knitted material used for trimming or binding.

Brass

An alloy consisting essentially of copper and zinc in variable proportions.

Breton Stripe

A fabric pattern with very widely-spaced thin stripes.

Bridle Leather

Type of leather that is used in traditional Saddlery ( saddles, whips etc.)

Brief

Cut to the waist, these panties feature full to medium coverage.

Broadcloth

Plain, closely woven fabric, lighter than poplin, finely textured.

Broadcloth

Fibre: Cotton and silk, and rayon. Very different than wool broadcloth. Weave: Plain weave and in most cotton broadcloths made with a very fine crosswise rib weave. Characteristics: Originally indicated a cloth woven on a wide loom. Very closely woven and in cotton, made from either carded or combed yarns. The filling is heavier and has less twist. It is finer than poplin when made with a crosswise rib and it is lustrous and soft with a good texture. Thread count ranges from high quality 144 x 6 count down to 80 x 60. Has a smooth finish. May be bleached, dyed, or printed; also is often mercerized. Wears very well. If not of a high quality or treated it wrinkles very badly. Finest quality made from Egyptian or combed pima cotton - also sea island. Uses: Shirts, dresses, particularly the tailored type in plain colours, blouses, summer wear of all kinds.

Broadcloth Habotai

Same as China Silk except heavier; wrinkles less; good for shirts weight: medium (10 mm) up

Brocade

Fibre: Cotton brocade often has the ground of cotton and the pattern of rayon and silk. Pattern is in low relief. Weave: Jacquard and dobby Characteristics: Rich, heavy, elaborate design effect. Sometimes with coloured or metallic threads making the design usually against a satin weave background. This makes the figures stand out. The figures in brocade are rather loose, while in damask the figure threads are actually bound into the material. The pattern may be satin on a twill ground or twill on a satin ground. Often reversible. The motifs may be of flowers, foliage, scrollwork, pastoral scenes, or other designs. The price range is wide. Generally reputed to have been developed from the Latin name "brocade" which means to figure. Uses: All types of after 5 wear, church vestments, interior furnishings, and state robes.

Brocatelle

Fibre: Silk, rayon, cotton, and synthetics. Weave: Jacquard - double or backed cloth. Characteristics: Originally supposed to be an imitation of Italian tooled leather - satin or twill pattern on plain or satin ground. It is recognized by a smooth raised figure of warp-effect, usually in a satin weave construction, on a filling effect background. True brocatelle is a double weave made of silk and linen warp and a silk and linen filling. Present-day materials may have changed from the XIIIth and XIVth Century fabrics, but they still have the embossed figure in the tight, compact woven warp-effect. While brocatelle is sometimes classed as a flat fabric, it shows patterns, which stand out in "high relief" in a sort of blistered effect. Uses: Draperies, furniture, coverings and general decorating purposes as well as all kinds of after 5 wear.

Broche

A spike spindle used for spinning thicker yarns; a spit or stringer (for fish) in the form of a forked branch.

Brooksease

Our exclusive high performance, natural double-stretch wool. It provides exceptional comfort, ease of movement, and resists wrinkling. The midweight, all-wool fabric is soft and supple to the touch, and perfect for year-round wear.

Broomstick Dress

A dress (or skirt) characterized by numerous pleats and crinkled material.

Brosse

- a spike spindle used for spinning thicker yarns; a spit or stringer (for fish) in the form of a forked branch

Brushed Brass

One type of textured brass having a matte finish produced by running a wire brush across the surface.

Buckram

Fibre: Cotton, some in linen, synthetics. Weave: Plain Characteristics: Cheap, low-textured, loose weave, very heavily sized and stiff. Also, 2 fabrics are glued together; one is open weave and the other much finer. Some is also made in linen in a single fabric. Also called crinoline book muslin or bookbinding. Name from Bokhara in Southern Russia, where it was first made. Uses: Used for interlinings and all kinds of stiffening in clothes, book binding, and for millinery (because it can be moistened and shaped). Used to give stiffness to leather garments not as stiff and often coloured is called "tarlatan". Softens with heat. Can be shaped while warm.

Buffalo Check

Design of big squares or blocks, in fairly heavy fabrics. It is used for shirts and outerwear.

Burnished

To polish metal with a coarse or smooth cloth.

Burnout

Fabric with an alternating solid and sheer design, often in a floral or animal print.

Bustier

A sleeveless, strapless top or dress held in place by boning, elastic or stretch fabrics. It is designed to help shape and enhance the bust line.

Butterfly Bowtie

Bow tie with flared ends, designed for a small knot.

Button Down Collar

Collar points are buttoned-down to the shirt.

Cable

A knitted stitch used that resembles a twisted cable. It gives the garment a textured appearance, and is used in sweaters.

Cadet collar

See Chinese collar.

Caduceus

An insignia bearing a staff with 2 entwined snakes and 2 wings at the top, symbolizing a physician.

Calebasse

A large hollow gourd used to hold cotton fiber during seeding and carding; a utility bowl for fibers; a gourd

Calfskin

Leather from a young calf, it is smooth-surfaced, fine-grained, and durable. It does not scuff easily, stretches only moderately, and cleans well.

Calico

Fibre: Cotton Weave: Plain - usually a low count. Characteristics: Originated in Calcutta, India, and is one of the oldest cottons. Rather coarse and light in weight. Pattern is printed on one side by discharge or resist printing. It is not always fast in colour. Sized for crispness but washes out and requires starch each time. Designs are often geometric in shape, but originally elaborate designs of birds, trees, and flowers. Inexpensive. Similar to percale. Very little on the market to-day, but the designs are still in use on other fabrics and sold as "calico print". Uses: Housedresses, aprons, patchwork quilts.

Cambric

Fibre: Cotton, also linen. Weave: Plain Characteristics: Soft, closely woven, light. Either bleached or piece dyed. Highly mercerized, lint free. Calendered on the right side with a slight gloss. Lower qualities have a smooth bright finish. Similar to batiste but is stiffer and fewer slubs. Launders very well. Has good body, sews and finishes well. Originally made in Cambria, France of linen and used for Church embroidery and table linens. Uses: Handkerchiefs, underwear, slips, nightgowns, children's dresses, aprons, shirts and blouses.

Camel Hair

Fiber from a camel, ranging in color from natural to brown. It can be used alone or blended with wool. It comes from the underside of the camel, and is lustrous and very soft.

Camel Hair

Fibre: Hair from the camel. Sometimes blended with wool or imitated in wool. Weave: Twill or plain. Characteristics: Underhair is best. It is lightweight, lustrous and soft. It ranges from a light tan to a brownish-black colour. Usually left its natural tones but can be dyed-usually navy and some red. It has quite a long nap and is warm. Better grades are expensive. Sometimes blended with wool to reduce the cost and increase the wear. All wool camel hair is not as lustrous and is spongy. Can have either a rich nap or a flat finish. Wears fairly well, particularly if blended. Uses: Coats, women's suits, sports coats, sweaters, some blankets and put in some very expensive oriental rugs.

Camisole neckline

Top of dress or top cut straight across and above bust with straps over shoulders.

Camisole/Cami

A fitted top with spaghetti straps that can be worn alone or as a layering piece.

Camp Pockets

Pockets that are sewn to the outside of the garment, usually squared off and characterized by seaming.

Candlewick Fabric

Fibre: Cotton - also wool. Weave: Plain Characteristics: An unbleached muslin bed sheeting (also called Kraft muslin) used as a base fabric on which a chenille effect is formed by application of candlewick (heavy plied yarn) loops, which are then cut to give the fuzzy effect and cut yarn appearance of true chenille yarn. May be uncut also. (True chenille is a cotton, wool, silk, or rayon yarn which has a pile protruding all around at slight angles and stimulates a caterpillar. Chenille is the French word for caterpillar). Uses: Bedspreads, drapes, housecoats, beachwear.

Candy Stripe

Equal-width stripes of a color and white on fabrics used for shirts and sportswear.

Cannette

A spool

Canton Flannel

Fibre: Cotton Weave: Four-harness warp-faced twill weaves. Characteristics: The filling yarn is a very loosely twisted and soft and later brushed to produce a soft nap on the back, the warp is medium in size. The face is twill. Heavy, warm, strong and absorbent. Named for Canton, China where it was first made. Comes bleached, unbleached, dyed, and some is printed. Uses: Interlinings, sleeping garments, linings, coverings, work gloves.

Canvas

Strong, closely-woven plain weave fabric, usually made from cotton, linen or hemp. Originally used to make sails.

Canvas

Fibre Linen, cotton. Weave: Plain. Characteristics: Mostly rugged, heavy material made from plyed yarns. Has body and strength. It is usually manufactured in the grey state but some is dyed for different uses. Almost the same as duck in heavier weights. Has an even weave. Ada or Java canvas used for yarn, needlework, almost like mesh. Uses: Tents, sails, mailbags, sacks, covers, etc. Finer types used for embroidery and paintings. Hair canvas is an interfacing material in various weights.

Cap Sleeve

A very short sleeve that hangs over the edge of the shoulder without extending along the underside of the arm.

Cap Sleeve

A small, short sleeve that sits on the shoulder, either forming a stiff cap or falling on to the arm to provide minimal coverage.

Cap sleeve

A short sleeve that resembles a cap covering the shoulder.

Cap Toe

A separate piece of material covering the toe section of a shoe; used on oxford-type shoes.

Cape collar

A cape style oversized collar.

Cape sleeve

A loose sleeve resembling a hanging cape.

Caplet sleeve

A short cape sleeve covering half the arm and the upper bodice.

Capri Pants

Close-fitting women's pants that end above the ankle.

Capri Pants

Three-quarter length pants designed to hit mid-calf – first popularized on the Isle of Capri.

Cardes

Cards, used for carding, aligning, fibers; a tool purchased from commercial producers; a carding brush; a card, a tool used to comb wool, cotton, etc.

Cardigan

Refers to any sweater or jacket that buttons down the front. It can have a round or v-neck.

Cardigan Jacket

A usually collarless sweater or jacket that opens the full length of the center front.

Cardigan neckline

See y shaped neckline.

Cargo Style

Pants or shorts with patch pocket or bellows pocket with a flap (usually a button flap).

Carpenter Pants/Shorts

Five-pocket pants characterized by a hammer loop – a stretch of material connecting the outside seam to the back pocket.

Cascade pleats

Three dimensional pleats that assume the form of a small waterfall.

Cashmere

Wool from the undercoat of the long-haired Kasmir goat, which is woven or knitted into soft fabrics that are luxurious to the touch. It is a fine, close weave.

Cashmere (Kashmir)

Fibre: From the Kashmir goat, a hair fibre found in Kashmir India, Tibet, Iran, Iraq, and South west China. Often mixed with wool or synthetics to cut costs and improve the wear. Weave: All weaves but mostly plain or twill. All knits. Characteristics: Fibre is cylindrical, soft and silken. More like wool than any other hair fibre. Has a very soft silky finish very light in weight. Doesn't stand up to hard wear on account of extremely soft downy finish. True colour is brownish, but can be dyed any shade. Comes in different weights. Uses: Knitted into sweaters for men and women, also women's dresses.

Cavalry Twill

Fibre: Woolen or worsted. Weave: 63 twill weave - right hand twill. Characteristics: Pronounced narrow and wide wale, in groups of 2. Strong rugged cloth. Quite elastic. Similar to U.S. elastic but elastic is smoother in rib, feel and effect, - (made of worsted yarn and a firmer weave). Also resembles tricotine but tricotine is much finer with a double diagonal. Uses: Riding habits, ski wear, sportswear, and uniform fabrics.

Cedar

The wood of a tree of the pine family noted for its fragrance and durability.

Center Vent

A split in the center lower part of a garment (jacket or skirt).

Chain belt

Metal or plastic links hooked together around the waistline.

Challis (Chalys)

Fibre: From the Kashmir goat, a hair fibre found in Kashmir India, Tibet, Iran, Iraq, and South west China. Often mixed with wool or synthetics to cut costs and improve the wear. Weave: All weaves but mostly plain or twill. All knits. Characteristics: Fibre is cylindrical, soft and silken. More like wool than any othe hair fibre. Has a very soft silky finish; very light in weight. Doesn't stand up to hard wear on account of extremely soft downy finish. True colour is brownish, but can be dyed any shade. Comes in different weights. Uses: Knitted into sweaters for men and women, also women's dresses and children's dresses and blouses, comforters, kimonos, neckties, and sportswear. In slacks or shorts it would have to be lined.

Chambray

Woven cotton, polyester, or rayon fabric with a colored warp and white filling; used for shirts and other apparel.

Chambray

Fibre: Cotton Weave: Plain weave or dobby designs on a plain-weave ground. Characteristics: Made with a dyed warp and a white or unbleached filling. Both carded and combed yarns used. Has a white selvedge. Some woven with alternating white and coloured warp. "Faded" look. Has very soft colouring. Some made with stripes, checks or embroidered. Smooth, strong, closely woven, soft and has a slight lustre. Wears very well, easy to sew, and launders well. If not crease resistant, it wrinkles easily. Originated in Cobrai, France, where it was first made for sunbonnets. Uses: Children's wear, dresses, shirts and blouses, aprons, all kinds of sportswear.

Chamois Cloth

Fibre: Cotton Weave: Plain Characteristics Fabric is napped, sheared, and dyed to simulate chamois leather. It is stiffer than kasha and thicker, softer and more durable than flannelette. Must be designated as "cotton chamoise-colour cloth". Uses: Dusters, interlining, storage bags for articles to prevent scratching.

Chamoisette

Fibre: Cotton, alos rayon and nylon. Weave: Knitted, double knit construction. Characteristics: A fine, firmly knit fabric. Has a very short soft nap. Wears well. Nylon chamoisette is more often called "glove silk". Uses: Gloves.

Chanel Style

Anything that is elegant, simple and easy to wear. Little black dresses and suits. Multi-chain jewelry. Named after Coco Chanel, the French couturière.

Charmeuse

A lightweight silk, cotton, or manmade fiber dress fabric which is soft and drapes well. It is smooth, has a semi-lustrous satin face and a dull back.

Charmeuse

Crepe backed satin; rich luster; drapes beautifully Weight:- medium; 16 or higher

Charmeuse

A manmade, shiny, silk-like fabric.

Check

A variety of patterns, including gingham, tattersall, houndstooth, plaid and checkerboard.

Cheesecloth

Fibre: Cotton Weave: Plain Characteristics: Originally used as a wrapping material for pressing cheese. Loosely woven, thin, light in weight, open in construction, and soft. Carded yarns are always used. It is also called gauze weave. When woven in 36" widths it is called tobacco cloth. When an applied finish is added, it is called buckram, crinoline, or bunting. Uses: In the gray cloth, it is used for covering tobacco plants, tea bags and wiping cloths. Finished cloth is used for curtains, bandages, dust cloths, cheap bunting, hat lining, surgical gauze, fly nets, food wrapping, e.g. meat and cheese, costumes and basket tops.

Chelsea collar

Flat collar formed from a v-neckline; long, pointed ends at front; popular during 1960s and revived in 1980s.

Chemise

A woman's straight, loose dress.

Chemise

Usually a short nightgown hemmed below the hip but above the knee. Held up by thin spaghetti straps, the gown should fit snugly at the bust and upper torso and fall loosely and flow flatterringly past the hips.

Chenille Fabric

Fibre: Cotton and any of the main textile fibres.Weave: Mostly plain weave. Characteristics: Warp yarn of any major textile fibre. Filling of chenille yarns (has a pile protruding all around at right angles). The word is French for caterpillar and fabric looks hairy. Do not confuse with tufted effects obtained without the use of true Chenille filling. Uses: Millinery, rugs, decorative fabrics, trimmings, upholstery.

Chesterfield

Plain-back, slightly shaped overcoat, in either a single-breasted fly front or a double-breasted style. It may also have a velvet collar.

Cheviot

Fibre: Wool originally and mostly made from wool from the Cheviot sheep but today also made of blends, spun synthetics, crossbred and reused wools. Weave: Twill (modern version sometimes plain). Characteristics: Very rugged, harsh, uneven surface that does not hold a crese and sags with wear. Resembles serge but is much more rugged and coarse and will not shine because of the rough surface. Often sold as a homespun but true homespun has a plain weave and very heavy. Also sold as a tweed. Uses: Coats, suits, sportswear, sport's coats.

Chiffon

A transparent sheer fabric in a plain weave. Extremely light in weight but very strong, it usually has a soft finish.

Chiffon

Fibre: Silk, rayon, cotton, synthetics Weave: Chiffon (French for "rag") Fibre: Silk, rayon, cotton, synthetics Weave: Plain Characteristics: Lightweight, sheer, transparent. Made with very fine, tightly twisted yarns. The tightly twisted yarns could be either in the filling or the warp or both. It is very strong, despite filmy look. Wears very well. It is very difficult to handle when sewing and it is best to baste the pieces over tissue to make it easier. It has slightly bumpy look. It is best suited to shirring, draping, gathering, tucking, etc., because it is so limp. If made in a straight sheath style, it should be underlined with very firm fabric. e.g. faille taffeta. Uses: After 5 wear, blouses, scarves.

Chiffon

A lightweight, plain-weave, sheer fabric made with very fine, tightly twisted yarns. It is very strong, despite its filmy look.

China Silk

Fibre: Silk. Weave: Originally hand woven in China of silk from the Bonabyx mori. Very soft and extremely lightweight but fairly strong. Irregularities of threads caused by the extreme lightness and softness are characteristic of the fabric. Uses: Mostly for linings and underlinings and could be used for blouses.

Chinchilla

Fibre: Cotton or wool, and some manmade and synthetics. Weave: Sateen or twill construction with extra fillings for long floats. Characteristics: Does not resemble true chinchilla fur. Has small nubs on the surface of the fabric which are made by the chincilla machine. It attacks the face and causes the long floats to be worked into nubs and balls. Cotton warp is often used because it cannot show from either side. Made in medium and heavy weights. Very warm and cozy fabrics. Takes its name from Chinchilla Spain where it was invented. Uses: In cotton, used for baby's blankets and bunting bags. In wool, for coats. Dark shades in wool are most popular, particularly navy and black.

Chinese collar

A band or stand collar that stands straight at the neck edge, about 1 inch high, and opens at center front. Also called mandarin, cadet, Mao or Nehru collar.

Chinese sleeve

See French sleeve.

Chino

Fibre: Cotton Weave: Twill (left hand) Characteristics: Combined two-ply warp and filling. Has a sheen that remains. Fabric was purchased in China (thus the name) by the U.S. Army for uniforms. Originally used for army cloth in England many years before and dyed olive-drab. Fabric is mercerized and sanforized. Washs and wears extremely well with a minimum of care. Uses: Army uniforms, summer suits and dresses, sportswear.

Chinos

All cotton twill fabric used for trousers and sportswear.

Chintz

Fibre: Cotton Weave: Plain Characteristics: Has bright gay figures, large flower designs, birds and other designs. Also comes in plain colours. Several types of glaze. The wax and starch glaze produced by friction or glazing calendars will wash out. The resin glaze finish will not wash out and withstand drycleaning. Also comes semi-glazed. Unglazed chintz is called cretonne. Named from the Indian word "Chint" meaning "broad, gaudily printed fabric". Uses: Draperies, slipcovers, dresses, sportswear.

Chukka Boot

Boot that extends above the ankle and fastens with a lace through two eyelets. It has a rubber or leather sole.

Cigar Clipper

An instrument for clipping or snipping off the end of a cigar.

Cigar Cutter

An instrument used for cutting a cigar, shaped like scissors.

Cisele Velvet

A velvet with a pattern formed by contrast in cut and uncut loops.

Clark Fit

Slim fit, plain front trouser.

Clog

A casual shoe on a wood base, usually closed toe with open back.

Coatdress

A dress styled like a coat, usually with a front buttoning from the neckline to the hemline.

Collar Stays

Thin brass or plastic strips that run down the inside of the collar to the points to give it a flat appearance; can be permanent or removable.

Column Skirt/Straight Skirt

Also referred to as a pencil skirt, this skirt is a straight line with no flare or fullness at the hem or waistline.

Combed Cotton

Combing is a process that removes all the short fibers, making it stronger and finer. It is a higher-quality fabric.

Concealed Snap/Velcro®/Button Placket

A slit in a garment where closures are hidden.

Convertible Collar

A rolled collar that can be worn open or closed. Sewn directly to the neckline.

Coolmax®

Coolmax® is a remarkable fiber has the ability to wick moisture away from the skin and dry quickly. Soft, lightweight and very breathable.

Cord Stitching

On a man's moccasin, IT refers to the leather lace overcast stitching on the upper part of the shoe.

Cordovan

Leather from the hindquarters of the horse. It is non-porous, durable, resistant to scuffing, very expensive, and long-wearing.

Corduroy

A durable cotton pile fabric with vertical ribs or wales--the less ribs per inch, the wider the wale.

Corduroy

Fibre: Cotton, rayon, and other textile fibres. Weave: Filling Pile with both plain and twill back. Characteristics: Made with an extra filling yarn. In the velvet family of fabrics. Has narrow medium and wide wales, also thick n'thin or checkerboard patterns. Wales have different widths and depths. Has to be cut all one way with pile running up. Most of it is ashable and wears very well. Has a soft lustre. Uses: Children's clothes of all kinds, dresses, jackets, skirts, suits, slacks, sportswear, men's trousers, jackets, bedspreads, draperies, and upholstery.

Cortina

Leather that has been processed with a vegetable dye.

Cotton Flake

Flake yarns are variations of the slub yarns. The yarn varies in thickness and softness, giving it a textured appearance.

Cotton Poplin

Medium weight durable textured fabric made with cotton or cotton blends.

Covered Heel

A heel that is covered with leather or man-made materials that match the color and texture of the vamp.

Covert

Fibre: Woolen or worsted, also cotton and spun rayon.Weave: Twill Characteristics: Made with two shades of colour e.g. (Medium and light brown). The warp is 2 ply (1 light; 1 dark) adn filling 1 ply (dark or same as warp). Very rugged and closely woven. Has a mottled or speckled effect. First used as a hunting fabric. Has a clear finish and hard texture. Wears exceptionally well and has a smart appearance. Light in weight. Uses: For overcoating for both men and women. It is also made waterproof and used a great deal in rain water.

Cowhide

Leather made from the hides of cows.

Cowl Neck

A neckline featuring a piece of material attached to a garment at the neck, which may be used as a hood or draped loosely in a swag from shoulder to shoulder at the front neckline or back.

Crash

Fibre Linen. Weave: Plain. Characteristics: It is very rugged and substantial in feel. Come in white or natural shades or could be dyed, printed, striped, or checked. The yarn is sstrong, irregular in diametre but smooth. Has a fairly good texture. Uses: Towelling, suitings, dresses, coats.

Crepe

Fibre: Worsted cotton, wool, silk, man-made synthetics. Weave: Mostly plain, but various weaves. Characteristics: Has a crinkled, puckered surface or soft mossy finish. Comes in different weights and degrees of sheerness. Dull with a harch dry feel. Woolen crepes are softer than worsted. If it is fine, it drapes well. Has very good wearing qualities. Has a very slimming effect. Uses: Depending on weight, it is used for dresses of all types, including long dinner dresses, suits, and coats.

Crepe

A light crinkled fabric woven of any various fibers.

Crepe

A fabric characterized by a crinkled, puckered surface or soft mossy finish. Comes in different weights and degrees of sheerness.

Crepe De Chine

Silk warp and crepe twist silk filling 25 x 22. More ends than picks per inch. Has a soft hand and considerable lustre. Made of raw silk or rayon. It is easy to manipulate and handle. Very long wearing. Most of it launders well. It is fairly sheer. Could be piece dyed or printed. Has a slight rippled texture. Heavy crepe de chine is called "Canton crepe" which is slightly ribbed and now mostly made in rayon. Weight:- 14 mm popular but inferior; 16 mm is good blouse weight, heavier available

Crepon

Crepe effect appears in direction of the warp and achieved by alternate S and Z, or slack, tension, or different degrees of twist. Originally a wool crepe but now made of silk and rayon. It is much stouter and more rugged than the average crepe. Has a wavy texture with the "waves" running in a lengthwise direction. Mostly used for prints. Uses: Dresses and ensembles.

Crettone

Fibre: Cotton, linen, rayon. Weave: Plain or twill. Characteristics: Finished in widths from 30 to 50 inches. Quality and price vary a great deal. The warp counts are finer than the filling counts which are spun rather loose. Strong substantial and gives good wear. Printed cretonne often has very bright colours and patterns. The fabric has no lustre (when glazed, it is called chintz). Some are warp printed and if they are, they are usually completely reversible. Designs run from the conservative to very wild and often completely cover the surface. Uses: Bedspreads, chairs, draperies, pillows, slipcovers, coverings of all kinds, beach wear, sportswear.

Crew Neck

A round neck with ribbed banding that fits close to the base of the neck.

Crinkle Cotton

Cotton that is treated to give it a rich, pliss texture in the warp that requires no ironing.

Crochet

A technique for making a garment or shoe with lacelike effect, involving a hook and yarn.

Cropped Pants

Pants cut to a length just above the ankles.

Cropped Top/Jacket

Hem is cut just above the waist.

Crow's Foot Pattern

A triangular-shaped pattern resembling the foot of a crow.

Cummerbund

Waistband of solid or patterned silk or other fabric, made with or without pleats, for wear with a dinner jacket.

Cut Through Pockets

Pockets that allow easy access through both the shell and lining of a coat to your clothing pockets.

D-ring

A double-ring closure where the strap pulls through both rings, then back through second ring to fasten; borrowed from fastenings on horse bridles and saddle straps.

Damask

Fibre Linen, silk, rayon, cotton, synthetics, wool, worsteds. Weave: Figured on Jacquard loom. Characteristics: Originally made of silk, that came to us from China via Damascus. In the XIII Century, Marco Polo gave an interesting tale about it. It is one of the oldest and most popular cloths to be found today. Very elaborate designs are possible. Cloth is beetled, calendared and the better qualities are gross-bleached. Very durable. reversible fabric. Sheds dirt. The firmer the texture, the better the quality. Launders well and holds a high lustre - particularly in linen. - Price range varies a great deal. There are two types of damask table cloths: 1) Single damask table cloths: construction. Thread count is usually around 200. 2) Double damask has an 8 shaft satin construction with usually twice as many filling yarns as warp yarns. This gives a much greater distinctness to the pattern. Thread count ranges from 165 to 400. - The quality of both depends on the yarn used and the thread count. - If the same quality and thread count are used, single is better than double because the shorter floats are more serviceable and the yarns hold more firmly. Double damask with less than 180 thread count is no good for home use

Darts

A fold of fabric stitched to a point at one or both ends, giving shape to a garment.

Dcollet

When a garment is cut very low at the neckline, revealing shoulders, back and bosom.

Decollate neckline

(den - co -eh- toy)-French adjective for garment cut very low at neckline revealing shoulders, neck and back, sometimes part of bosom. Also called a plunging neckline.

Deerskin

Skin of a female deer or antelope, usually in white or natural shades, but sometimes in colors.

Demi Bra

A half bra that leaves the top of the bustline exposed; perfect worn with low-cut tops or dresses.

Denim

Fibre: Cotton Weave: Twill - right hand - may be L2/1 or L3/1. Characteristics: Name derived from French "serge de Nimes". Originally had dark blue, brown or dark grey warp with a white or gray filling giving a mottled look and used only for work clothes. now woven in bright and pastel colours with stripes as well as plain. Long wearing, it resists snags and tears. Comes in heavy and lighter weights. Uses: Work clothes, overalls, caps, uniforms, bedspreads, slipcovers, draperies, upholstery, sportswear, of all kinds, dresses and has even been used for evening wear.

Diamond Neck

A diamond-shaped cutout that fastens at the front or back neckline.

Dickey

Partial collar or neckline worn under a shirt, blouse or dress to accent the other garment or give additional warmth.

Dimity

Fibre: Cotton Weave: Plain weave with a crosswise or lengthwise spaced rib or crossbar effect. Characteristics: A thin sheer with corded spaced stripes that could be single, double or triple grouping. Made of combed yarn adn is 36" wide. Has a crisp texture which remains fairly well after washing. Resembles lawn in the white state. It is easy to sew and manipulate and launders well. Creases unless crease-resistant. May be bleached, dyed, or printed and often printed with a small rose-bud design. It is mercerized and has a soft lustre. Uses: Children's dresses, women's dresses, and blouses, infant's wear, collar and cuff sets, basinettes, bedspreads, curtains, underwear. Has a very young look.

Dinner Jacket

Evening jacket for semi-formal or formal wear. It may be single or double-breasted, with lustrous facing on peaked lapels or shawl collar.

Dobby

Made with a special loon that crates small, geometric figures Weight: - usually expensive fabric

Dobby

Fabric with small figures woven in, such as dots, geometric designs, floral patterns, etc. They are found in shirt and tie fabrics.

Doeskin

A closely woven woolen worsted fabric with a slightly napped surface, used for sportswear and slacks.

Doeskin

Fibre: Wool and also rayon. Weave: A 5 or 8 harness satin weave. Rayon: Twill weave and napped on one side, or a small satin weave. Characteristics: Very smooth, lustrous surface made with a slight short nap very close and compact weave to look like fine leather. Weave not visible because of napping. Very high quality wool used. Needs care in handling. Medium weight. Uses: Women's suits and coats, and also in a lighter weight for dresses. Sportswear and riding habits for both men and women. Trousers and waistcoats for men.

Dog collar

See choker neckline.

Dolman Sleeve

Cut as an extension of the bodice, the dolman sleeve is designed without a socket for the shoulder, creating a deep, wide armhole that reaches from the waist to a narrowed wrist. Also called a batwing sleeve.

Dolman sleeve

A sleeve with a large armhole that narrows gently toward the cuff.

Domett Flannel

Fibre: Cotton Weave: Plain and twill Characteristics: Also spelled domet. Generally made in white. Has a longer nap than on flannelette. Soft filling yarns of medium or lightweight are used to obtain the nap. The term domett is interchangeable with "outing flannel" but it is only made in a plain weave. Both are soft and fleecy and won't irritate the skin. Any sizing or starching must be removed before using. Outing flannel is also piece-dyed and some printed and produced in a spun rayon also. Uses: Mostly used for infants wear, interlinings, polished cloths.

Donegal

Fibre: Wool - also in rayons and cottons. Weave: Mostly plain but some in twill. Characteristics: Originally a homespun woven by the peasants in Donegal, Ireland. A rough adn ready fabric that stands much hard wear. Yarns are coarse with thick slubs and coloured nubs. Now made in other places as well - particularly England. Uses: Coats, heavy suits, sportswear. Has a tailored, sporty look

Dopp Kit

A men's travel size shaving/toiletry kit, with a zipper closure, side zip compartment, and inside pocket.

Dotted Swiss

Fibre: Cotton Weave: Plain weave for ground with a swivel, lappet or flocked dot. Characteristics: Dots could be a single colour or multicoloured. Placed regularly or irregularly on a semi-sheer usually crisp fabric which may or may not be permanent. First made on hand looms in Switzerland and some still is. It is made in 32" widths. The lappet is the most permanent. When hand woven with a swivel attachment the dots are tied in by hand on the back of the cloth. The ground fabric is usually a voil or a lawn. Uses: Children's and women's summer dresses and blouses, aprons, curtains, bedspreads. It is a young looking fabric.

Double Face Cloth

Overcoat material composed of two fabrics joined together with a binder yarn. Either side can be used as the face.

Double-bar Horizontal Repp

A stripe fabric pattern of two closely-spaced thin stripes, with one wide stripe in between.

Double-breasted

Term applied to a jacket or coat in which the fabric overlaps by a few inches in the front. There are 2 vertical rows of buttons and a single row of buttonholes with a single button on the underside to secure the fabric on the inside.

Double-Breasted

A style of closure in which one edge of a garment overlaps another with a double row of buttons or other fasteners.

Double-face Satin

Yarn woven with two warps and one filling, to simulate a double satin construction. Has satin on both sides. Cotton filling is often used in cheaper qualities.

Double-Tee Top

A layered look with one T-shirt over another, usually connected.

Doubleknit

Fibre: Cotton, wool, worsted, silk, rayon, and synthetics Weave: Circular or flat-needle bar type Characteristics: A two faced cloth, either face may be utilized as the rigth side. The fabric originated in Milan and Florence. Can be stabilized for shrinkage control and dry cleans satisfactorily.

Doupion,Douppioni,Doupioni

Silk yarns made from the cocoon of two ilk worms that have nested toghether. In spinning, teh double strand is not separated so the yarn is uneven and irregular with a large diametre in places. Fabric is of silk made in a plain weave. The fabric is very irregular and shows many slubs - seems to be made in a hit and miss manner. It is imitated in rayon and some synthetics, and one such fabtic is called "Cupioni". Dupion yarns also used in shantung, pongee. Tailors very well.

Drape

The hang or fall of fabric when made into a garment.

Draped Bodice

An extra piece of material is draped over the bustline.

Drawstring

Drawstring forms gathered softness when pulled.

Drawstring neckline

Cord used to gather fullness either high or low on the neck; other names include peasant or gypsy.

Drill

Fibre: Cotton Weave: Twill. Left-hand twill. From top left to lower right. L2/1 or L3/1. Characteristics Closer, flatter wales that ganardine. Medium weight and course yarns are used. Also made in some other weights. Some left in the grey but can be bleached or dyed. When dyed a khaki colour it is known by that name. Uses: Uniforms, work clothes, slip covers, sportswear, and many industrial uses.

Dropped shoulder

An armhole seam that drops over and below the top of the shoulder 2-4 inches.

Dropped Shoulders

Characterized by the shoulder/sleeve seam falling off the shoulder.

Duchess

An 8-12 shaft satin. It is a dress fabric. Very fine yarns are used, particularly in the warp with more ends/inch than picks. The material is string, has a high lustre, and texture, and it is firm. Usually 36" wide. Characterized by grainy twill on back.

Duck

Fibre: Cotton. Originally made in linen. Weave: Plain, but also crosswise rib. Characteristics: Also called canvas. Name originated in 18th Century when canvas sails from Britain bare the trademark symbol - a duck. Very closely woven and heavy. it is the most durable fabric made. There are many kinds of duck but the heavier weighs are called canvas. It may be unbleached, white, dyed, printed or painted. Washable, many are waterproof and wind proof. Made in various weights. Uses: Utility clothing in lighter weights, such as trousers, jackets, aprons. Also for awnings, sails, slipcovers, draperies, sportswear, tents, and many industrial uses

Duffel Coat

A heavy, usually woolen medium length coat with toggle fasteners and a hood.

Dupionni

Other related terms: dupion, douppioni, shantung; fabric containing slubs, uneven; forms when two silk worms make their cocoons at the same time thus joining together.

Duster

A long, open summer coat, with or without a button closure.

Duvetyn(e)

Fibre: Good quality wool. If made in cotton, is usually called suede cloth. Weave: Satin, 7 or 8 shaft. Characteristics: Close weave, brushed, singed, and sheared to conceal the weave. Has a smooth plush appearance resembleing a compact velvet. Similar to wool broadcloth but heavier and thicker. Has a good draping quality, soft and wears well if looked after. Spots easily and care must be taken when handling it. Back is often slightly napped also. Name derived from the French word "duvet" meaning "down". Uses: Women's coats, suits, and dresses, depending on the weight. Used a great deal in the millinery trade.

Elbow patch

A patch of fabric sewn over the elbow for reinforcement. Traditionally done in leather or suede.

Elliot Fit

Relaxed fit, pleat front trouser.

Embossed

Leather treated with heat and pressure in a hydraulic press to give it a grained look.

Embroidery

Decorative stitching superimposed on fabric with contrasting thread; any design can be used.

Empire

A style that is designed with a high waist to create a flattering sweep.

Empire Bodice

A bodice that ends just below the bust, sometimes gathered.

Empire Seams

Seams that are sewn directly below the bustline.

Empire Waist

This waistline begins just below the bust.

Enamel

A usually opaque substance applied by fusion to the surface of metal, glass, or pottery.

End-on-end

Broadcloth, chambray, madras, or other fabric having alternating warp yarn, usually one in color and one in white.

Engine-turn

Involves the use of a machine to engrave geometric designs into metal.

English Moc Construction

Refers to the same piece of leather at the top of shoe is wrapped completely around & a sole is put on.

English Spread Collar

A plain "tennis" collar which has spread points. The spread, usually 4" or more, shortens the point.

Envelope Hem

A hemline open at the bottom with angular, overlapping flounces. Also applies to a shoe’s top-line detail, ie: envelope vamp.

Envelope pocket

Pocket is attached to outside of garment or accessory with flap and pleated sides; frequently used on handbags, luggage, and aprons.

Enzyme Washed

Use of a catalytic substance secreted by living organisms which brings about a chemical change in a fabric.

Epaulet

(ep-a-let) -A tab cut as part of shoulder and sleeve or a separate section; can also be used at hem edge for roll up sleeve.

Epaulet sleeve

The armhole line is extended up into the neckline creating an epaulet-like shape along the shoulder.

Epaulets

A strap stitched to or buttoned on the shoulder of a garment.

Epaulette

Any shoulder ornament, usually a button strap; often seen with braiding or other trim.

Eponge (Souffle)

Fibre: Wool, also rayon and silk. Weave: any weave - usually a novelty - plain warp, novelty filling or reverse. Characteristics: Derived from the French term eponge for "spongy". Very soft and spongelike in a variety of novelty effects with loose weave of about 20 x 20. Also known as ratine in cotton. Rayon and silk is soft, loose, and spongy, something like terry cloth. Does not have surface loops. Many stores now call eponge "boucle". Uses: Suits, dresses, coats, sportswear, and summer suits

Espadrille

Shoe with a flexible sole made of rope or rubber and a fabric upper. Originally worn as a bathing shoe.

Exposed zipper

A zipper sewn into a garment while leaving the teeth of the zipper visible.

Extended Waist

A waistband with an extended inner edge, usually with a button or hook to fasten on the inside. This provides for a smoother look.

Eyelet

A fabric punched with decorative holes embroidered with purl stitching.

Eyelet

Circular and decorative hole edged with close zigzag stitch.

Fabric Terms

There are many types of silks. Listed below are a few of the more popular ones found in the US. To assess a silk one needs to consider three factors. They are: Silk Type, Silk Weight, and Silk Weave. Silks of the same type might have different characteristics because of different weights or weaves. For example, Crepe de Chine, one of the most popular fabrics for women's blouses, come in a variety of weights. Generally speaking, we feel that a Crepe de Chine of a 14 momme weight is inferior and will not show off all the best characteristics of the fabric. Thus, we only carry a weight of 16 momme or higher in our ready-to-wear line. However, many department stores and especially discount stores will carry Crepe de Chine blouses of 14 momme. These blouses may be advertised as 100% silk (which they are) but will not perform satisfactory as a garment. Likewise, with the so-called washable silks. If they are made from an 8 or 10 momme weight fabric (usually China Silk), they will wrinkle easily and generally wear out rapidly. Silks are naturally strong and wrinkle resistant. If your silk garment does not have these characteristics check their weight or weave.

Fabric Weaves

Silks are woven fabrics. Fabric weave helps determine such characteristics as strength and durability or the fabric as well as beauty. Since silk is so strong naturally, less durable weaves may be used to achieve a particular look not capable in other fabrics.

Faconne

Fibre: Silk or rayon. Weave: Figured weave or "burnt-out" finish. Characteristics: Faconne in French, means fancy weave. Has small designs all over the fabric. Fairly light in weight, and could be slightly creped. Background is much more sheer than teh designs, therefore the designs seem to stand out. Very effective when worn over a different colour. Drapes, handle, and wears well. Uses: Dresses, blouses, scarves, after 5, dressy afternoon and bridal wear.

Faconne Velvet

Patterned velvet made by burnt-out print process. The design is of velvet with background plain.

Faille

Fibre: Silk, rayon. Weave: Crosswise rib. Characteristics: Has a definite crosswise rib effect. Very soft material that drapes well. Finer than gros grain but in that family - ribs are also flatter than in grosgrain. Some belongs to the crepe family. It is rather difficult to launder. Will give good wear if handled properly. Has a lustrous finish. Uses: Dresses, blouses, soft evening purses, some dressy coats

Faille Taffeta

Made with a crosswise rib weave. Has a distinct rib effect and is usually quite heavy and firm.

Fair Isle

Sweater of an allover colorful design, originally hand-knitted on Fair Isle, off the coast of Scotland.

Faux

A French word meaning imitation or fake. Used most often in connection with gems, pearls, leathers, and furs.

Feather Edge

On a belt, it refers to edges that are not topstitched.

Felt

Fibre: Wool, reprocessed wool, reused wool, scrap fibre, can be mixed with other fibres, cotton, rayon. Weave: Not woven but felted. Characteristics: A very compact fabric in various weights and thicknesses. Has grain so can be cut any way. Needs no hemming or finishing, because it does not fray. Uses: Many industrial uses, such as: piano hammers and in the printing industry. Many novelties, such as: pennants, slippers, lining of many kinds, insoles, and toys. Hats and felt skirts

Fichu collar

An oversized collar. The collar employs a triangular piece draped over the shoulders.

Fil

Thread or yarn

Fine Wale

In a woven fabric, this refers to a rib or raised cord, as in corduroy.

Fine-Gauge Knit

A smooth sweater knit garment that has little or no texture.

Fishtail Train

Fitted around the hips and flares out from the knee to the hemline, longer in the back.

Fit-and-flare

A silhouette that is close-fitting at the top, and spreads outward, or flares, at the bottom.

Fitted Point Sleeve

A long, narrow sleeve that tapers to a point that rests against the back of the hand.

Fixed Underwire

With the look and feel of a traditional underwire bra, the fixed underwire offers the most support and definition for full-busted women.

Flange dart

A tuck at the back shoulder and armhole intersection of a shirt or blouse that allows more movement in the arms.

Flannel

A loosely woven fabric with a napped surface to conceal the weave, made mainly of wool in men's apparel.

Flannel

Fibre: Wool, worsted, cotton, rayon.

Flannelette

Fibre: Cotton Weave: Plain and twill. Characteristics: A heavy, soft material with a napped finish, usually only on one side. In cheaper qualities the nap comes off. Launders well, easy to manipulate and is warm to wear. There are many types on the market. It may be bleached, dyed, printed, or woven in coloured stripes. Uses: Infants and children’s wear, men's, women's and children's sleeping wear, pocket linings, quilts, shirtings.

Flap pocket

A pocket with an overhanging flap.

Flap Pockets

A pocket with an extended flap forming the closure, as on an envelope.

Flap-over Inset Pockets

Pockets made by slitting the garment, binding the cut edges, and lining, with an envelope-like flap at the opening.

Flap-over Patch Pockets

A flat pocket applied to the outside of a garment, with an extended flap forming the closure, as on an envelope.

Flare Pants

Pants that flare at the hem. Also called bell-bottoms.

Flat Crepe

Also called French Crepe or Lingerie Crepe but not exactly the same. It is the flattest of all the crepes with only a very slight pebbled or crepe effect hard twist alternating 25 x 22 in filling; warp has ordinary twist. It is very soft and pliable, which makes it good for draping. It is very light weight - 2 times as many ends as picks. It may be white, coloured, or printed. Most of it launders well. Uses: Accessories, blouses, dress goods, negligees, pyjamas and other pieces of lingerie and linings

Flat-Front Pants

Straight pants, often seamless and pocketless.

Fleece

Fibre: Wool specialty hair fibres, cotton. Weave: Plain, twill, pile or knitted. Characteristics: Has a deep, soft nap or pile, obtained by heavily napping with wire brushes or with a pile weave. This provides air space giving good insulating properties without too much weight. The interlacings are will covered by the nap. The nap wears out in time, but good quality cloth gives good wear. Range from cheap to expensive clothes. Material is often cumbersome and bulky, therefore it may be difficult to manipulate. Also, the name for the entire coat of wool taken from a sheep at shearing time. Uses: Mostly used for coats for men, women, and children.

Fleece

Woolen material with a napped fuzzy surface, used mainly in outerwear.

Floating Underwire

The floating underwire has a sleek appearance and easy fit while providing more support for average to full-busted women.

Flood Pants

Pants cut at, or just above, the ankle.

Florentine Neck

A wide, square-cut neckline extending to the shoulders.

Florentine neckline

Extends form shoulder straight across front and back; inspired by Renaissance painters.

Flounce

The flounce is cut from two circles creating a full flare at the hem and a smooth fitting line at the point at which it is attached to the garment.

Fly front placket

A placket that completely covers the buttons.

Form-Fitting/Slim-Fit

Straight from waist to ankle except for a slight curve around the hip.

Forward Pleats

Pleats that point toward the center of the garment.

Forward Point Collar

Traditional shirt collar-not buttoned down (also known as a Tennis Collar).

Foulard

Fibre: Silk, rayon, very fine cotton, very fine worsted. Weave: Twill, 2 up 2 down. Characteristics: Very soft, light fabric. Noted for its soft finish and feel. It is usually printed with small figures on a dark or light background. Similar to Surah and Tie Silk, but finer. Was originally imported from India. Uses: Dresses, robes, scarves, and neckwear of all kinds. First made for the handkerchief trade

Four-in-hand

The most common tie worn by men today; tied in a flat knot at the neck; long strands hang down.

French Cuff

Have square or round edges that turn back and are worn with cuff-links.

French cuff

A double-layer cuff with folded back sleeve ends held in place by a cuff link.

French Fly

This closure has a front fly with an inside button tab; this keeps the fly laying smooth. It also has a hook & eye closure and extended outer tab with buttons.

French Front Placket

Construction detail in which the shirt front is simply folded under, eliminating the raised placket that runs down the front of the shirt.

French front placket

The placket is turned back on the lining.

French sleeve

In Europe and the USA the French sleeve is the same as a kimono sleeve, but in Japan it indicates a slightly longer sleeve. Also called a Chinese sleeve.

French Terry

A woven fabric, usually cotton, with loop pile on one or both sides.

Fringe trim

Unraveled cloth ends as seen on hems, shawls and western styles.

Frise

Fibre: Rayon most popular, also mohair and silk and synthetics. The ground or backing yarns are usually made of cotton. Sometimes jute or hemp are combined with the cotton. Weave: Pile (looped). Characteristics: Made usually with uncut loops in all-over pattern. It is sometimes patterned by shearing the loops at different lengths. Some made with both cut and uncut loops in the form of a pattern. Uses: Upholstery, also used widely as transporation fabric by railroads, buses, and airplanes. Frise is also spelled Frieze but frieze really refers to a rough, fuzzy, rizzy, boardy woolen overcoating fabric which originated in Friesland Holland. Often used for overcoating material for soldiers. Much adulteration is given the cloth. Irish frieze is quite popular adn more reliable and is called "cotha more".

Frog toggle

Decorative cording attached to front of garment; one side forms loop buttonhole.

Gabardine

A distinctive diagonal warp twill, tightly woven fabric.

Gabardine

Fibre: Worsted cotton, rayon, or mixtures. Weave: Steep twill (63 degrees). Characteristics: Clear finish, tightly woven, firm, durable, rather lustrous. Can be given a dull finish. Has single diagonal lines on the face, raised twil. Wears extremely well. Also comes in various weights. Inclined to shine with wear. Hard to press properly. Uses: Men's and women's tailored suits, coats, raincoats, uniforms, and men's shirts

Gabardine

A sturdy, durable, lightweight twill fabric of cotton, wool or rayon.

Gadget

A long, narrow triangular cloth piece of fabric; usually seen on a skirt along the hem.

Garment Dyed

Fabric dyed after the garment is sewn

Garment Washed

Process where the garment is washed after construction, rather than prior to construction.

Gathered raffle

Edging made from strip of straight grain fabric; fullness, same at seam and hem edge, is created by gathering or pleating fabric.

Gathering

A technique that creates fullness by tightening threads in a row of stitching.

Gaucho

Wide-legged pants or divided skirt reaching mid-calf.

Gauntlets cuff

A cuff styled after the glove style armor cuff worn by the medieval knight.

Georgette

Highly creped sheer silk fabric, used for dresses and blouses.

Georgette

Characterized by its crispness, body and outstanding durability, georgette is a sheer fabric of silk or synthetic material with a dull, slightly crinkled surface.

Georgette Crepe

Lightweight, heavy, sheer fabric. Has quite a bit of stiffness and body. gives excellent wear. Has a dull, crinkled surface. Achieved by alternating S and Z yarns in a high twist in both warp and filling directions. Georgette has a harser, duller, more crinkled feel and appearance than crepe de chine. Uses: After 5 wear and dressy afternoon and weddings, lingerie, scarves, etc. Same uses as crepe de chine.

Gingham

Fabric with dyed yarns introduced at given intervals, both vertically and horizontally, to achieve block or check effects.

Gingham

Fibre: Cotton, man-made, and synthtics. Weave: Plain-Word derived from Italy "Ging-gang" meaning "striped". Characteristics: Medium or fine yarns of varying quality are used to obtain the checks, plaids, stripes, and plain effects. The cloth is yarn dyed or printed. The warp and the filling are usually balanced and if checks of two colours, usually same sequence in both the warp and the filling. It is strong, substantial, and serviceable. It launders will but low textured, cheap fabric may shrink considerably unless preshrunk. Has a soft, dull lustre surface. Wrinkles unless wrinkle-resistant. Tissue or zephyr ginghams are sheer being woven with finer yarns and a higher thread count. Uses: Dresses, blouses, for both women and children, trimmings, kerchiefs, aprons, beach wear, curtains, bedspreads, pyjamas.

Glen Plaid

Scottish tartan of mostly gray, blue, brown, or greenish casts with multiple colors, in which a group of stripes run vertically and horizontally to form a boxlike pattern.

Gloss Finish

A finish giving off a surface luster or brightness.

Glove Silk

Fibre: Silk, rayon, synthetics. Weave: Knit - two bar doubleknit tricot. Characteristics: Made on a warp knitted frame. Very finely knit but very strong. Now called nylon Simplex. Uses: Gloves and underwear. Similar to chamoisette (cotton).

Godet

A triangular piece of fabric sewn in to a skirt or sleeve for extra fullness.

Gold Filled

A layer of gold covering a base metal by fusing.

Gold Inlay

Refers to when a design is cut right into a stone.

Gold Plated

Layers of gold over a base metal deposited on all surfaces by electroplating. The more layers deposited, the more durable the finish.

Goldtone Buckle

Gold color buckle

Gore

See gadget.

Gore Skirt

A full skirt that gets it's fullness from the gores. A gore is a tapered or triangular piece of fabric that is fuller at the bottom than at the top.

Grand Fancy Repp

A richly textured diagonal twill weave, with the weave resembling a herringbone pattern.

Graph Check

A fabric pattern resembling graph paper.

Graphic Stripes

A fabric pattern with ivory ground & Bold contrast.

Grommet

An eyelet that is reinforced with metal or plastic; used as a durable closure or decoration.

Grommet

An eyelet made of metal.

Gros Point de Venise

High relief needlepoint lace.

Grosgrain

A heavy, rather prominent ribbed fabric--used mostly in ribbon.

Guard Stripe

A diagonal fabric pattern of even width stripes.

Guipure Lace

Tape lace in large, dramatic patterns executed on coarse mesh.

Gusset

A triangular or diamond-shaped piece of cloth inserted in a garment to strengthen or enlarge it.

Gussets

A pocket with a piece of material inserted at the side seam to allow extra fullness.

Gypsy neckline

See drawstring neckline.

Habutai

Fibre: Silk. Weave: Plain. Characteristics: Very light weight and soft. A little heavier than China Silk, but similar. Sold by weight measure known "momme" (1 momme = 3.75 g). Made from waste silk that can be twisted. It is piece dyed or printed and sized. Has many defects in the cloth which has a "shot-about" appearance but this does not effect the cloth. Comes from Japan - originally woven in teh gum on Japanese hand looms. Lighter than shantung but heavier than silk. Uses: Dresses, coats, shirting, lampshades, lingerie, curtains.

Hairline Stripe

Very narrow stripes, made by weaving single threads in color to contrast with the background color.

Halter neckline

Strap, band, or tie that holds backless garment at neck.

Halter Top

A sleeveless bodice with a high choke or wrap-neck that is usually backless.

Hand

Manipulation of the weft thread usually placed on coverlets at the intersection of warp and weft cordons; button

Hand-linked

A method of finishing seams that gives garments a smooth, flat appearance.

Handkerchief Style

The hem of a blouse or skirt that is gently jagged to form flowing points.

Harris Tweed

All are hand woven on the islands off the Northern coast of Scotland (outer Hebrides). There are two types of Harris Tweed: 1) Fabric woven from hand-spun yarn. 2) Fabric woven from machine-spun yarn. Now very few are woven from hand spun yarns as it takes too much time and labor. It is always stamped to that effect in addition to the label, which any Harris Tweed always bears. Much is woven in 27" and 28" widths, but also in 54". When damp, it smells mossy and smokey.

Hemline

Refers to the bottom part of a garment.

Hemp

Hemp is a bast fibre that was probably used first in Asia. The fibre is dark tan or brown and is difficult to bleach, but it can be dyed bright and dark colours. The hemp fibres vary widely in length, depending upon their ultimate use. Industrial fibres may be several inches long, while fibres used for domestic textiles are about 3/4 inch to 1 inch (1.9 to 2.54 cm) long. The elongation (1 to 6 percent) is low and its elasticity poor. The thermal reactions of hemp and the effect of sunlight are the s